There is something about a scone eaten within sight of the sea that no city tearoom can quite replicate. Perhaps it is the salt in the air, the wind in your hair, or simply the fact that you have walked a mile or two to earn it. Either way, the classic British scone is a natural companion to coastal living, and it takes very little effort to tilt a traditional recipe towards the shoreline.
The beauty of a scone is its simplicity. Flour, butter, a little sugar, milk, and a hot oven. That plainness is also its opportunity. A handful of hedgerow berries, a grating of lemon zest, or a pinch of dried seaweed can transform a familiar bake into something that tastes unmistakably of the coast. Better still, most of these additions come free from the garden, the cliff path, or a good local deli.
Start with a recipe you trust, then build your coastal twist on top of it. This quantity makes roughly eight to ten scones, depending on your cutter.
Heat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan, gas mark 7) and line a baking tray with parchment. Rub the cold butter into the flour, baking powder and salt until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs, then stir through the sugar. Add the milk gradually, bringing it together with a knife or your hands until you have a soft but not sticky dough.
Turn out onto a floured surface, pat to about 2.5cm thick, and cut straight down with a floured cutter. Do not twist the cutter — a clean vertical cut gives the best rise. Brush the tops with milk and bake for 12 to 15 minutes until risen and golden.
Each of these additions folds in at the same stage, just before the milk goes in. Choose one per batch, or experiment with combinations once you know what you like.
If you are adding a wet ingredient such as rehydrated seaweed or juicy berries, hold back two or three tablespoons of the milk and add only as much as the dough needs.
Coastal kitchens are often humid, and flour absorbs moisture from the air. If your dough feels wetter than usual, add a little extra flour, a spoonful at a time. On the flip side, a breezy day can dry a cut scone out quickly, so get the tray into the oven promptly rather than leaving them sitting on the worktop.
Handle the dough as little as possible. Overworking develops gluten, and a tough scone is a sad thing. A light hand, a hot oven, and a quick bake are the three rules worth remembering. If your scones spread rather than rise, your dough was too wet or your butter too warm.
Scones are at their finest within an hour of leaving the oven, ideally still warm enough to melt a generous spoonful of clotted cream. If you must reheat them, a low oven for five minutes is kinder than a microwave, which turns them rubbery.
On the jam-or-cream-first question, much has been written and little settled. Cornwall spreads jam first, then cream; Devon does the opposite. There is no wrong answer, only strong opinions. For a coastal twist, try a spoonful of lemon curd alongside raspberry jam, or a little honey drizzled over the seaweed and cheese version.
If you have a coastal garden, a few well-chosen plants will keep your baking supplied through the year. Rosemary and thyme thrive in salty air and work surprisingly well chopped into a savoury scone. Blueberry bushes in a sheltered pot reward you with fruit for both baking and bowls of breakfast yogurt. Where foraging is permitted and you know your species, blackberries from the hedgerow and a little dulse from the rocks add a genuine sense of place.
Serve your scones on a sturdy plate, with a pot of strong tea, a view of the water if you have one, and no hurry at all. That, more than any ingredient, is the real recipe for a seaside treat.
April 25, 2019 at 10:46 am
Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood hangouts that you've only ever seen on TV. Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood.
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Soldman Kell
April 25, 2019 at 10:46 am
Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood hangouts that you've only ever seen on TV. Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood.